Showing posts with label London. Show all posts
Showing posts with label London. Show all posts

Thursday, 15 May 2014

FOUR CAN PLAY: Mo-dettes

Hangin' high: the Mo-dettes in London 1979

My introduction to the Mo-dettes came in the form of a badge I found in a vintage clothes shop in Greenwich, south London, in 1999. It featured a drawing of a reclining, lantern-jawed, be-suited man - an ebony-haired hero straight out of an illustrated Jackie romance. His smirk suggested thoughts of a carnal nature, as well it might, since the thought bubble coming from his slick head read ‘Mmm… Mo-dettes!’ I was intrigued by the name. Was it a misprint? Surely they were called the Modettes? Or maybe the hyphen had run amok and it was supposed to be Mod-ettes? My confusion was further compounded a few months later when browsing through the paper mountains at VinMag in Soho, I came across a copy of The Face from September 1980 emblazoned with the tagline ‘Modettes a la Mode’ and featuring as the cover star Jane, the bassist, looking mischievously elfin. Surely such a clanging misprint wouldn’t have made it on to the cover - they must’ve been a mod revival band. And they must have been well fucked off about the badge…

But then I heard ‘White Mice’. All became clear, and a fan was born.

I later discovered the group had been fond of the word ‘mode’ and  added the latter half as an homage to the girl groups of the pre-swinging sixties (The Marvelettes, et al). Yet the three-decade-old misconception of them as a mod group hasn’t died out (they frequently appear on mod compilations) and in the 21st century, the Mo-dettes remain a cult.

Thoughts of an impure nature

They say too much is made of punk and the way it democratised creativity, that those who run today’s media were so in thrall to in their youth that its cultural value is overstated. Nonsense - not enough is made of it. For one thing, it’s easily forgotten today how minimal the presence of female musicians was prior to punk. Before Patti Smith made her Shamanic assault on rock ‘n’ roll in 1975 (concurrent with The Runaways – who were a different beast altogether), many a young gal had fronted a band on the strength of her tits ‘n’ teeth appeal alone, but known female musicians that you couldn’t take home to your mother could until then be counted on one hand: Sparkle Moore had herself a slide guitar and a hot line in rockabilly hip-slinging but gave it up to be a housewife; the Velvets had Mo Tucker pounding the drums; Joan and Joni had their acoustics and Suzi had her electric. (And Janis? Janis pretty much preferred to be seen as one of the boys.) Jane Crockford, the Mo-dettes’ gifted bassist, complained to Kris Needs in 1979, “When I was a little girl I used to look at bands like The Beatles and go, ‘It’s not fair! They’re all boys! Girls can’t grow up and be in a pop group!’ I was really pissed off about it. It turned out alright though.”

"Small fish and large chips please, mate" Brighton 1979

The Mo-dettes formed in April 1979, when punk had succumbed to headline hype and become the ultimate phoney rebel stance. It had also regressed to a level of thuggery fuelled by Colt 45 and conventionality fuelled by careerism. Alas, this didn’t stop the lemmings-on-the-lam march from all points north to Chelsea, and ramalama three-chord thrash just kept on coming. But the music the Mo-dettes ultimately produced – rough-edged urban pop-punk – suggests that unlike scores of their contemporaries, they’d woken up and smelt the '80s. This is not to say their music contained the baby cries of hair metal, synthpop or richly syllabled new romantic horrors, but they clearly realised that punk’s first noxious wave had long since crashed on the shore and ebbed away. This was something different. They were not as angular and aggressive as the Slits, not as earthy and experimental as The Raincoats, but all three bands were progeny of punk’s first wave, which allowed anyone to throw off the shackles and discover the strange, delicious things that came with such freedom.

Vixens amid Vitrolite
Their 1979-1982 lifespan coincided with the post-punk era, and though the Mo-dettes were not ‘post-punk’ in the accepted definition of the term (i.e. complex, experimental, cerebral, avant-garde) with their melding of harmony, speed, pop, punk attitude, humour, sass, and “female chauvinism” they were at the very least, members of a halfway sorority house between the first wave of punk and its progeny. The dubby basslines and sixties girl-group sensibility was arguably an example of post-punk’s black/white fusion creeping into their sound, but ultimately, they bristled with too much energy and sarky-snarky humour to truly fit post-punk’s dry, sometimes po-faced model.

Likewise, they seemed to have little time for the often humourless, partisan feminist politics of the day. They appeared in NME’s “Women in Rock” issue on 29 March 1980 under extreme sufferance. Despite the journalist, Deanne Pearson, explaining to the girls that she was writing about women in rock, not feminists in rock, the interview went from bad to worse, with questioner and questioned almost coming to blows. While Jane Crockford conceded that they anticipated potential trouble with record labels who regarded all-girls bands as novelties, she insisted that being girls had, on the whole, been a help, not a hindrance. She added (possibly as a wind-up, given the fractious tone between the band and Pearson) that exploiting their sexuality might bring them a wider audience still, which was fine with her. Ultimately, Ramona, the singer, decided that she personally was a feminist if feminism meant equal rights and abortion on demand, but when it came to the band, much as they couldn’t deny their gender, they were in it for the music alone.

Poseurs
So the Mo-dettes were not fond of the “women in rock” tag, but they weren’t an anti-feminist band as such: they simply wanted to be judged up top, not down below, as it were. Later that same year, guitarist Kate told Mike Laye in a Sounds interview that she believed such compartmentalising defeated the progress of women in society by making them into “…a women’s army”, separating them from the mass of humanity and further cementing the idea of women as Other – surely the opposite of the ideology’s tenets. Simply, the Mo-dettes didn’t believe they were automatically or anatomically entitled to respect simply because of a combination of gender and the ability to play. As Jane said, “We don’t demand respect, we’re going to earn it, mate… as musicians, as ourselves.”

The original line up was Ramona Carlier (vox), Jane Crockford (bass), Kate Korris (guitar) and June Miles-Kingston (drums). Jane was unhappily playing bass in a band called Bank of Dresden. The lone female of the group, she craved her own set-up. She met Ramona at a gig and impressed by her sixties kitchen-sink heroine appearance, asked her if she could sing. Ramona shrugged and said yeah, sure. (“That’s what you did”, Ramona later said of the era’s “Anyone can, man” ethos.)

Meanwhile, Kate and June met on the set of The Great Rock ‘n’ Roll Swindle while working as production assistants and subsequently tried to make music with boys, an idea scrapped following not-wholly unexpected “You’re not a bad drummer/guitarist for a girl” quips. They saw countless potential bassists and singers, mainly male, all either “unreliable or afraid” according to Kate. Fortuitously, she then met Jane in the grim environs of the Lisson Grove dole queue. They ran their ideas by each other, and an outfit was born.


Ramona had been raised in Geneva, Switzerland and had studied ballet. From bourgeois beginnings, she gravitated toward the seedier side of life, producing a punk fanzine called Lolos De Lola, hanging out on the minuscule local scene and occasionally singing backing vocals for bands (but never for Kleenex, as is often said). But she saw little evidence of anger being turned into art, and yearning for the Real Thing, aged 21, emptied her savings account and flew to London. Looking like both a raven-haired Vogue-cover beauty and a cartoonish Betty Boop-alike with eyes you could swim with dolphins in, the alarmingly cheekboned Ramona sang with an accent as broad as the Champs Elysees (“Ah zee zoze gels go by tressed in dare zum-air closs!”) which left one critic with oeuf on his face after sneering at her “O level French” in an early review. Onstage, she’d favour synthetic-to-the-touch vintage A-line mod dresses, in spite of such attire possibly compounding confusion over their name.

Hittin' them notes: Ramona in 1980

Jane’s background was worthy of a Richard Allen novel. A native of west London, she was a restless adopted child who became a runaway and street kid, immersed in the capital’s subcultures and demimonde from the tender age of 13. Years of squats, violence and drugs could have led who knows where, but punk kicked the door wide for her, opportunity wise. Arming herself with a vintage Hofner violin bass, she proved to be a mistress of rich, dubby basslines that would make her the rock of the band. Her appearance took the biscuit: a Lahndan doll with a fetching and fierce vanilla-pale peroxide flat-top offsetting her razor-sharp cheekbones, a nice line in skinhead/rockabilly fusion style courtesy of Kensington Market and an astonishing pair of replacement eyebrows (she’d shaved hers off) which looked as though they’d been fashioned from hot tar and applied via cunning use of a Gloy-stick.

June don't play musical statues. The Modes in 1980

Kate, the guitarist, had moved from New York to London in 1974. She’d founded The Slits in the searing summer of ’76, played at their debut at Harlesden Coliseum with the Clash in March 1977 and for two subsequent gigs before taking her leave, claiming in 1979 that she felt “…the whole thing with The Slits was to get as famous as possible as fast as you could [but] I enjoyed it in a way.” Strong-featured, leggy and looking haughty as a heron, with a platinum skunk-stripe in her barnet, her minimal, glass-shower guitar sound complimented Jane’s heavy bass perfectly.

June was a drop-out art student and, as it turned out, a girl for whom rhythm came as naturally as breathing, having taught herself to drum on a ramshackle £40 kit she’d bought off the Pistols’ Paul Cook. A native of Essex and a musical family (her loftily quiffed brother Robert twanged for Tenpole Tudor), making her own sounds must have been a case of when, not if. She looked like a member of a girl gang: a surly mix of biker leathers (she did indeed ride) and slightly swollen-looking lips set in a mean pout. Looking as cool as a julep whether behind the kit or no, she favoured Spartan onstage outfits of shorts and singlet and kept her make-up in a toolbox. Her power-drumming was equal parts cataclysmic and clipped; it cut, said one elegant scribe “like a goods train passing through the room.”

Thus grouped, they set about making their impact on the world. Jane’s friend and mentor, the artist Neal Brown, was frontman of the Vincent Units and had a side project called The Tesco Bombers, with a rolling line-up. Jane had the idea that one such incarnation should be all-female, with Brown only participating if he’d drag up: The Tesco Bomberettes! In the end, they played it as the Mo-dettes, at Ladbroke Grove bootboy haunt, the Acklam Hall. A run of backroom gigs soon followed at The Chippenham, an insalubrious gin palace in Maida Hill. Word got out, and a combination of scene solidarity and credible connections soon led to support slots with Madness at the Electric Ballroom, the Clash at Notre Dame Hall and Siouxsie and the Banshees at Hammersmith Odeon. 

June (left) and Jane on stage in Dallas, 1980

Their debut single ‘White Mice’ (B-side ‘Masochistic Opposite’) was released in late 1979 on their own Mode label and distributed by Rough Trade. A thing of jangly joy and beauty forever, John Peel succinctly described this perfectly crafted, catchy, post-punk pop-punk gem as sounding “… like the musical equivalent of the Battersea Power Station made out of eggboxes.” It was that charming and that unique – but far less fragile. Opening with a sharp reggae-like snare roll from June, the melody spirals away perfectly as Ramona’s Fronsh vocals lay waste to the egos of several Roxy Romeos with a bunch of come-hither-fuck-off lyrics (“Your arse is tight your moves are right, your eyes are big and blue, and if I was a homely girl I’d like to marry you. But I’m too naughty, bold and haughty, forward with it too, so come and visit, then I’d kiss it like other lovers do… don’t be stupid, don’t be limp. No girl likes to love a wimp.”) Clearly aware that all the best pop songs feature handclaps and “ooh-woahs”, they meld them with Kate’s ultra-minimal, choppy, abrasive melodies, June’s military-style fills and Jane’s yo-yo-staccato basslines. The single spent six weeks at number one in the then-new indie chart and it was often at the top of my stash whenever I used to flex my shonky DJ’ing prowess in exchange for a few light ales (typically, I found my original copy lurking between a Purple Hearts’ and a Specials’ single in the Two-Tone & Mod Revival section of the otherwise excellent Brighton emporium, Wax Factor, which for some reason I always want to call ‘Vinyl Sassoon’).

NYC 1981

In 1980 they were signed to Deram, an imprint of failing sixties’ stalwarts Decca. In June that year they released their second single, a cover of the Stones’ 1966 hit ‘Paint it Black’. Their take was stark, minimal and spiky, with just enough heft and sparseness to the rhythms to suggest a hint of dub (giving it, as Nicholas Rombes says in his Cultural Dictionary of Punk “its blackness”). It made Single of the Week in Sounds, the write-up revealing they were then John Lydon’s current favourites, rare praise from a man never known to have doffed his cap lightly. However, the single didn’t do what they expected commercially and nor did the subsequent release, ‘Dark Park Creeping’, a jagged and murky song that pumps along at a 4/4 beat while Ramona’s vocals soar and echo as she wails about drunken, inadequate men staggering around pitch-black parks after closing time looking for someone to right-hook with their sovereign. (The brassy bounce of the B-side, ‘Two Can Play’ seems to be about the constant struggle for autonomy in relationships.)

Loony Toons
Their album The Story So Far was recorded in Coventry in summer 1980 and released in autumn that year, with the girls’ likenesses rendered in candy-coloured Manga-style ‘toons on the cover. It received poor reviews largely centred on the production, described in one quarter as “weak and uninspired”. The band themselves conceded, with June, in bluff-stickswoman mode, describing it in the sleeve notes of the 2008 reissue as “shit” and Kate puzzling over what went wrong between the studio and the pressing plant. But this blight is easy to ignore simply because of the album’s sheer, ballooning fun. It featured ten originals plus a joyous and bouncy cover of Piaf’s ‘Milord’ and the aforementioned Stones cover. ‘Satisfy’ is a sunny, smutty slice of power-pop – a Girl’s Own ‘Orgasm Addict’ – which revels in harmony and owes some debt to Blondie. The cheery whirl of ‘Foolish Girl’ explains their aversion to the rigid and joyless feminist ideals of the day (“She was once a feminist, sharp and deadly was her kiss…”) with a spiralling outro bass line that suggests the Mo-dettes were well attuned to ‘old-fart’ notions of making people want to dance. While humour seemed to be their forte, it’s counterbalanced by the chilly dawn fade-in of ‘Bedtime Stories’ and the melancholy prĂ©cis of Piaf’s life in ‘Sparrow’.

It may well be an imperfect album (the sped-up, charmless version of ‘White Mice’ (‘White Mouse Disco’) that they were forced to include didn’t help matters), but for those of us who were still unable to read our own names in 1980, it’s one of the few artefacts of their sound we have. They did record three Peel Sessions, one of which can be heard here and includes ‘Norman (He’s No Rebel)’, ‘Dark Park Creeping’, ‘Kray Twins’ and ‘Bitter Truth’. This session undoubtedly produced more cocksure recordings (and is truly representative of their sound, according to Jane and June) and there’s a clarity in the production that’s lacking on the album, but then, the producers and engineers at BBC Maida Vale were probably more used to dealing with bands not solely comprising hirsute men, unlike Roger Lomas at the Coventry studio who, according to June, seemed to think female musicians were mythical creatures and treated them accordingly. 

There’s also a live 7’ of ‘Kray Twins’ recorded at The Marquee in 1981. As it fades in, we hear Jane telling the restless audience in her broadest west-Londonese, “That one’s about amateur violence [‘Dark Park Creeping’] – now let’s have some professional violence”. The song, a downbeat blues narrative, is a snapshot of the rise and fall of the East End ne’er-do-wells and was written by Jane in early 1979 when she was still in Bank of Dresden. She said, “I was the only female in the band and they actually asked me not to write any songs, despite my enthusiasm. They only wanted a dumb blonde bass player.”  Their loss: the smart blonde added a loafing bass line and raspy half-spoken, half-scatted vocals, and with Ramona’s eerie backing wails, produced a song transcending both its era and any popular genre then or now.

June in 1980

No longer existing on snouts, wits and grubby pound notes, the Mo-dettes toured Europe and America twice. According to Ramona in Hot Love: Swiss Punk & New Wave 1976-1980, highlights of their travels included being run out of Orange County by local rednecks, wowing lesbian fans in the deep southern states, guzzling LSD-laced blue punch by the turquoise waters of the Tropicana’s pool in LA and endless nights at squat parties in Amsterdam. A contemporary American fanzine said that live, the Mo-dettes looked like they were “fighting with their instruments – and determined to win!” 

Kate in 1980

While in New York, they found time to sing backing vocals on John Cale’s ‘Fighter Pilot’ single from his album Honi Soit. But the fun couldn’t last forever and in mid-1981, their record company decided their coffers needed replenishing and put a gag order on the band’s individual sound, demanding a bit of sugar-coated candy pop to sweeten an increasingly bitter deal. Their next (and as it turned out, final) single was ‘Tonight’ released in July 1981. Much loathed by the band, the high-pitched girly harmonising and forgettable safe melody of the song is the antithesis of their earlier work: the difference between it and the mature froideur of ‘Sparrow’ and the angular nastiness of ‘Dark Park Creeping’ is the difference between chiffon velvet and the Rocky Mountains. The same might be said of the band’s appearance on the single’s cover – a far cry from the cool-as-fuck satin ‘n’ tat-clad dandettes of old, they lounge on a mountain of plush, got up in velour, puffballs, spangled woollens and half a ton of blusher each. Even Jane, as stylish as the decade was young, appears to have been forcibly permed. According to June, they considered the single and accompanying shoot nothing more than a joke. 

Kate clearly worn out by the glamour of it all . . .
Two months later, in August 1981, Melissa Ritter joined on rhythm guitar, Decca having demanded the Mo-dettes add more flesh to their agile sound. The group’s dynamic was now askew, and the first cracks appeared. In a Sounds cover story back on 28 June 1980, Ramona and Kate had both expressed reservations about their signing to a major, a situation June and Jane, conversely, couldn’t have seemed happier about. Ramona had said she didn’t like knowing exactly how the following two years of her life were going to pan out. So it was perhaps no surprise that she was the first to decamp, in the winter of 1982, citing Deram’s wilful neglect of them as her reason and leaving June to sing from behind her toms until one Sue Slack took over vocal duties. Kate was next to go, her initial worries about being manipulated by the strings of a major (also aired in the aforementioned interview) seemingly confirmed. With only half the original line-up now at the helm, the good ship Mode ran aground in late '82.

A grass-roots revolution of the like we surely won’t see again had offered these girls (and many more) previously undreamt of opportunities – for making a living out of gut creativity, travelling the world and treating others to the fruits of said ideas. The Mo-dettes were, by their own account, out for a lark and would give it up when the fun ceased – but to live the lark required a certain amount of capital and their signing with a major seemed less a career move than a chance to extend the fun. They cared about the music though, and wanted to be heard: they didn’t, as Kate said to ZigZag magazine in 1979, want to be a cult, and so they set about moving into the slipstream of the mainstream. Despite this, their lack of careerism was ultimately borne out by the fact that they stuck to their agreement to chuck it all in when it stopped being a hoot.

Sun und fun

Perhaps that’s one of the reasons behind their obscurity. It was the right time and they had a real cool one - but their ardour for hedonism burned brighter than their ambition, unlike many of their contemporaries, such as the Slits. Another reason for the Mo-dettes’ continuing obscurity may be the ongoing erroneous belief in their relation to modernists. For unlike Two-Tone’s still much-loved exuberant brand of ska, new mod’s practitioners (Merton Parkas, Lambrettas), with their reputation for po-faced fastidiousness, have not been looked upon with any such favour (Paul Weller excepted) and are rarely played by all but their sharply-clad devotees. Of course, being remembered may well be enough for the former Mo-dettes. After all, by 1983, they’d already done what they’d set out to do, have proof of the accomplishment and may feel no need to revisit the graffiti-covered, booze-filled, fag-fugged rooms of their past.

The group’s ultimate contribution to the world is a singular sound: they simply don’t sound like anyone else. Dark and abrasive edges somehow sit happily alongside their bold and rough ‘n’ cheery punky melodies. That they’re only ever compared (lazily) to their stateside contemporaries The Go-Gos, whose twisted take on Californian surf-pop had as many dark and abrasive edges as a multi-coloured beachball, is basic proof for my money that they were a rare bunch. And the intervening decades have been kind: their songs could be placed in almost any year since the ones they were recorded. And while it’s less important, the same is true of their appearance: their young selves could take to a stage in the gentrified badlands of Dalston tonight and no one would peg them as time travellers from the early years of Thatcher’s reign of terror. They never looked ‘seventies’ or indeed, ‘eighties’ in any way (save for the slapstick shoot for ‘Tonight’).

Faggin' around in London tahn: 1979

Though their legacy can undoubtedly be heard in the pure indie fuzz-pop of C86 groups like The Shop Assistants and The Darling Buds, it’s difficult – not least because of their obscurity - to make a case for the Mo-dettes as influential. If they were, there’d be far more good bands on the underground circuit today than there are. But if their legacy seems to have reached an impasse in the mid-to-late eighties, it may be all the better for preserving their uniqueness.

Of her band’s place quiet but sure place in the pop-cult pantheon, Jane : “Along with The Slits, to have been a genuine part of London culture – of British culture – whether it’s high or low, is mind-blowing.”








Friday, 29 November 2013

Skinheads: a Hard Case


Skinheads have long been misunderstood. This subculture’s perceived links to far-right politics have somewhat soured their contribution to subcultural style. To make claims for it is to hit a cultural nerve and be laid open to accusations of filtering out noxious ideologies to concentrate on aesthetics alone.

However, things are rarely as black and white as they seem, if you’ll pardon the expression, and while there were undoubtedly factions of racist and violent Skins or 'boneheads' – those who were afraid of everything and worked overtime pretending they were afraid of nothing – there were legions of other Skins whose way of life was a celebration not of whiteness, but of roots: they were working-class with class.

Dress to the left c.1972

The original sixties Skins morphed out of the Mod scene. For Mods whose means were as slender as their silhouettes, petrol-blue Italian mohair suits were out - but Sta-prest, button-down Brutus shirts and steel-capped leather boots (shiny enough for a modette to stare into and make up her Ace Face) were in. The template for this approximated look was the dockyard worker’s uniform: with a few tweaks and some painstaking attention to detail, it was sharp, clean and tough enough to be seen in during an amphetamine-fuelled evening of skanking to blue beat, ska and soul in the racially mixed and harmonious dancehalls of south-west London.

Suedeheads c.1971

By and by, like ice floes in the spring, these Mods (‘Hard Mods’) split from their peacock-like brethren (‘Smooth Mods’). By now, the latter wore their aspiration tonsorially by adopting hairstyles that spoke of leisured grooming while the former went to the other extreme with a clipped head that spoke of practicality, manual work and self-assurance. This style, the original Skinhead crop, was inspired by the young West Indian men they danced beside. These Rude Boys kept their wiry, unruly & coarse locks under strict control by keeping one step ahead of the razor. From this cut Skinheads would receive their new name come the fag-end of that most mythologized decade.

Best foot forward, c.1971

In 1969, many male Skins had partings shaved into their crops, running from crown to forehead, though this was mostly hidden beneath a pork-pie trilby, worn on the back, not the top of the head. Over the check shirt (Brutus, Ben Sherman or Jaytex) an original Skin would wear a Wrangler or Levi’s denim or corduroy jacket, or perhaps an RAF great coat or donkey jacket. Anything, infact, as long as it wasn’t fashion, that most bourgeois of concerns; this was about style. However, all coats and jackets faded in the grand shadow of the sheepskin coat, the Skin Symbol par excellence.

'ard Modettes c.1968

The distaff members of the Skin and Suedehead cult distained the buttock-hugging acrylic strides favoured by their mainstream sisters of the ’69-72 period (though the Skinbird’s affection for the mini-and-fishnets combo came later), but their faces owed much to the Modette style:  lips painted cardiac-arrest pale, Cleopatra eyes, and eyebrows plucked to oblivion. Their hairstyle was also modernist at this point – a tufty, micro-fringed crop with feathered sides. Beneath their flat-fronted slacks or bell-bottoms, they’d more than likely be wearing monkey boots or clumpy flare-heeled brogues. Their brothers and boyfriends would be shod in a bewildering array of reflective leather: loafers, Italian brogues, leather-uppers, 8-eyelet DMs, or Norwegians.

Jackie-friendly suedehead couple c.1973

Come the very early seventies, Skinheads began to evolve into Suedeheads - some of who took their terrace stomp all the way to Top of the Pops in the form of Glam (Slade, after all, started out as faithful Suedeheads). 

Nobody's Fools: Slade in 1969

With a softer, smoother surface up top, the silhouette broadened at the shoulders with the arrival of the Crombie (more often than not a Chesterfield masquerading as Crombie, but let’s not split stubble) in all its midnight black or natty navy sleekness. A pocket square was often pinned in the breast with a diamond-studded pin. Amazingly, a brolly and bowler was sometimes added to this get-up, thereby creating a bizarre caricature of a City Slicker.

Skins and Suedeheads were increasingly less easy to spot in the mid-seventies period, largely because their style had evolved so far from its origins that they were virtually unrecognisable, walking the mean streets of the East End in knitwear, polo-necks, cords and, surreally, long fringes. 


But in the wake of the punk explosion, a new generation of Skins emerged alongsidethe countless other youth cults of the 1979-83 period, and this was when racial politics really entered the equation along with the emergence of Two Tone. The East End of London was the principal territory of the new Skin, but in the New Towns - those concrete citadels of the Home Counties - Skinhead was huge.

Sorts

Skins now wrapped up against the chill wind of Thatcherism in Harrington jackets (burgundy or black cutting the sharpest dash), accompanied by orange-tab Levis with three-inch turn ups, all the better to expose the inky-black DMs rising up their calves. Added to this were form-fitting Fred Perry shirts, V-neck sweaters and whip-slender braces. Hair ranged from the near-bald ‘shadow’ of the number one crop to smoothies and suedes. Skinhead girls (or ‘Skinbirds’) now sported the classic feather (or ‘Chelsea’) cut – short on the crown, with fringes at the sides and front; the crown might even be shaved, with feathery bangs flopping over the forehead. Many Skinbirds had a tendency to bleach their remaining follicles to within an inch of their lives - and they never let their roots grow out. Ever. Denim minis were worn with itchy black fishnet tights and spotless cherry red DMs (or white socks with shoes). Snug Fred Perry t-shirts and Ben Sherman check shirts were often a real boon for those Skinbirds blessed in the mammary department.

Skinbirds, Brighton 1980

Overall, the look became more extreme (tattoos were widespread), but it was no less sharp, although suits were never seen on Skin revivalists. But the rot had set in, and Skinheads began to splinter spectacularly: into Trojans (originals), Neo-Nazis, SHARPs (Skinheads Against Racial Prejudice), casuals and ‘plastic’ Skins (i.e. High Street pretenders), Two-Tone and Oi! fans and later, gay fetishists. For a subculture that had originally stressed roots, pride and respect, the fact that some Skins could now be seen Mod-bashing on Margate seafront or in Bethnal Green underpasses showed how withered those roots had become.

Neo

Like all the subcultures of the post-punk era, true Skins still exist, albeit in diminished numbers. Many 21st-century Skins are often a combination of the best elements of the subculture; their politics, if they have any, do not interfere with their love of ska, Fred Perry or feather cuts. But then as now, there are those who sully the name: a head case is a hard case to crack.

Reggae-pop! 1970
Potential Piccadilly Palaver 1970
Sharp
Blur busy appropriating, 1993

Allen's Oeuvre

El Tel and the Boys: The Specials in 1979

Skinbirds c.1982

Kids are United

"Don't care for you or your camera, mate."




Tuesday, 29 October 2013

Rockers: Folk Devilry in Leather

Rockers have been suffering from a mistaken subcultural identity for over fifty years. Teds, those frothily-quiffed dandy thugs in Technicolor facsimiles of Granddad’s 1911 Sunday Best, were not Rockers. And though the Greaser tag eventually became interchangeable with Rocker, flowing alongside Rockabilly and later Psychobilly, into one big, grease-slicked reservoir, Rockers were at first out there on their own, a very pre-Swinging Sixties phenomenon.


Their roots were in the immediate post-war era: an historical incubating period for nearly every youth cult, big or small for the next 25 years. Between 1945 and 1950, the average wage of teens in Britain increased at twice the average rate of the adult wage. This new prosperity collided with the explosion of American Rock ‘n’ Roll, Hollywood’s take on insubordinate youth in The Wild One, Blackboard Jungle and Rebel without a Cause, and, oddly, the construction of arterial roads around major British cities – veritable racetracks with the circumference of a metropolis. British motorcycle building hit a peak in these years too, and the youths who roared up and down the freshly set concrete on these gleaming monsters became known as ‘Ton-Up Boys’ (Ton-Up being slang for driving at 100mph), whizzing by in a phalanx of smoky leather, smoggy exhaust smoke & inky blue denim.

Where it all began: Brando as Johnny in The Wild One (1954)

By the early sixties, the Ton-Ups had become as well known – if not better known - for their devotion to Rockabilly and a singular style of dress, as for their motorcycles, and the Rockers were born (Teds, conversely, had by now passed into history – at least as a visible youth cult). Rockers now began to strip down and soup up their bog-standard factory motorcycles, which ended up closely resembling racer bikes: speed not comfort was the desired end.  Storming north and south of the river and around London’s  arterial roads was thirsty work, and while battered leather, reflective slicked hair and the tribal stomp of engineer boots quickly became unwelcome – if not banned – in dancehalls and ‘respectable’ pubs, The Ace CafĂ©, the Ace of Spades and the Chelsea Bridge Tea Stall quickly became Rocker haunts, not only for slurping endless mugs of sickly-sweet beige tea while chuffing unfiltered tabs, but as starting and finishing points for increasingly competitive & treacherous motorcycle races. Rockers were loathed by ‘motorcycle enthusiasts’ and the feeling was probably mutual.


As the subculture grew stronger, the outfit became tougher, largely born of practicality. The leather jackets became increasingly studded, patched and covered in enamel or metal pin badges. Levis were tough, midnight blue and wide-legged, with turn-ups of several inches plus. Under these, a Rocker would sport the classic Lewis Leather biker, or engineer boots. Hair was Brylcreemed into shimmering pomps, ramrod stiff quiffs, or slick, swept-back waves; certainly nothing the chill air could shift while roaring up the North Circular, were you forgoing your helmet or peaked leather cap (latterly a much-favoured fetish item). A fluttering white silk scarf and aviator goggles completed the look. Of an evening, the boots might be replaced by crepe-soled brothel creepers in a spectrum of rainbow colours and off came the leathers to reveal Daddy-O-style bowling shirts. 

Pomps 'n' Pepsi

Rocker girlfriends (for they were nearly always girlfriends – they didn’t have subcultural autonomy like their rival Mod sisters) wore a similar daytime get-up, but with a wild bouffant & more eyeliner than a silent movie star. When the sun went down, she’d shimmy into a circulation-hindering pencil skirt, a bullet bra and a pair of spike heels. Thus attired, the Rocker couple would dance to Elvis, Bo Diddley, Gene Vincent, Eddie Cochran, Billy Fury, Johnny Burnette, Wanda Jackson and Link Wray

Gene und Eddie: rumble

Their drug of choice was beer, for Rockers where emphatically – almost puritanically – anti-drugs. The reason for this appears to be little other than Mods’ fondness for them: anything Mods liked, Rockers emphatically hated. A Rocker would have no more necked a Purple Heart than he or she would have donned a parka and jumped on a Vespa.

Circa 1960

By the late '60s, after a succession of well-publicised seaside clashes with Mods a few years earlier had helped create Folk Devils out of both cults, Rockers began to splinter as elements of their world became appropriated (as usual) by hippies who liked motorbikes, i.e. Hell’s Angels. Easy Rider, released in 1969, was anathema to Rockers, and it’s hardly surprising; it’s harder to think of a more wholesale hippie theft of Rock ‘n’ Roll than this beardy, weirdy, much-lauded film. From here on, the ‘Greaser’ tag took over.


In the early-mid ’70s, old Teds and Greasers became one on the cultural imagination: both were seen as vaguely tragic throwbacks. Teds undoubtedly helped this attitude along with their innate conservatism. The social and political changes of the sixties and seventies hadn’t touched them, and they liked it that way. Greasers were not cut from the same cloth, but they were united with Teds in their hatred of Punk, come ’76, casually beating several shades of Crazy Colour out of the King’s Rd crowd of a Saturday afternoon for what they were doing to ‘their’ Rock ‘n’ Roll. Fortunately, youth creates afresh, and those who loved their parents’ ’50s and ’60s Rockabilly as much as the new-fangled three-chord thrash combined the two and Psychobilly was born, alongside a passionate Rockabilly revival, with bands like The Cramps, The Polecats and The Meteors leading the way. Psychobilly and the new rockabilly were faster & harder than the originals, and former style took the original look to cartoon extremes – 10-inch quiffs, shaved temples, brightly coloured tattoos: and this was just the girls.

Hard Girls: the backbone of all badassery

The Rockabilly revival never truly died out and remains a solid subculture today; a colourful, hardcore, obsessive alternative to a world that seems to drift from the bland to the blander, day in, day out.

Your author's father on the speedway, 1958

Dude 'tude

Rita Tushingham and Colin Campbell in The Leather Boys (1964)

Chelsea Bridge

Dahn The Ace
Originally published on Queens of Vintage.com, August 2009

Thursday, 17 October 2013

Mod: Socially Mobile

Mod has oft been described as ‘Clean living under difficult circumstances’, which is eloquent, but perhaps misleading – after all, there wasn’t anything ‘clean’ about necking fistfuls of amphetamines of a Saturday night down The Marquee. But it sums up the essence of what Mod was originally all about: aspiration and a desire for a better lot when your circumstances suggested such things were permanently out of reach. Mod is usually thought of as a largely apolitical subculture, but the burning desire for social mobility that lay behind it - even only in the aesthetic sense - suggests there was a tiny political spark in its fast-beating heart. The pockets of the original Mods may have been empty, but they were lined with silk. They were of the present, looking forever forward.

South London 1964

Like a virulent strain of flu, post-war austerity long outstayed its welcome. As it wore off, there was another European invasion – that of French culture. Prototype Mods sat uncomfortably through the first wave of the New Wave, sported French Crops & wore Italian suits. But their allegiance to all things continental lapsed when they’d had an earful of French Jazz which was closer to Trad then Modernist, and when sartorially, they realised they could get what they desired closer to home. In 1962 Town magazine ran a piece in which young working-class men from Stamford Hill in north-east London enthused about the best tailors in the Smoke : “Bilgorri of Bishopsgate -  he’s ace, all the best faces go there. And John Stephens – he’s great on trousers.” From here on, Mod became a very Anglo Affair.

Arguably, this was the first time since the Dandies of the Victorian era that young men were openly enthusiastic about fashion and accessories, which when you consider that the twentieth century had rolled around to its seventh decade, is really saying something. Moreover, these were working-class and (largely) heterosexual men. One teenager, Marc Feld (later one Marc Bolan), complained to Town that many of his peers were overtly snobby about where they got their gear: “I saw a gingham shirt in Woolworths this morning – only ten bob. A few alterations and it would be as good as anything from John Michael or John Stephen.” His advice was probably taken up though, for this was a scene in which faces – as opposed to magazines and designers – set the diktats. Word would percolate out from Stamford Hill all the way to Wardour Street that this week, they’d be mainly wearing cufflinks, which might have been supplanted by cravats the week after.

Mr Marc Feld (front right) before his white swan came along

Modernist by name, Modernist by nature: it was a heady, narcissistic, fastidious, fast-moving, fast-evolving subculture, which moved that little bit faster with the adoption of Scooters (which also helped incorporate the Parka into the Mod uniform –fine tailoring needed protection from mud & rain). Vespas or Lambrettas with bumpers & side panels that had been electroplated till they gleamed gave a working-class kid accessible mobility, and in a pre-night-bus era an easy ride home after speeding their brains out to American R ‘n’ B till 6am on a Sunday, Stamford Hill Broadway not being walkable from Soho and all that.

The Mod allegiance to R ‘n’ B and soul had actually started in the coffee bars of the very late ‘50s and early ‘60s, despite that scene being associated with Beatniks and jazz. For many of the coffee bars had half-empty juke boxes which black American GIs stationed in Blighty for the Cold War would add their records to. Word got out. These same soldiers would also sell their rare booty – both R ‘n’ B and rare soul records – to young Mods, who were obsessed with the raw sound. With Jamaican ska and British Beat added to the mix, Mods of both genders could be seen showing off their moves and streamlined silhouettes down the Marquee, The Flamingo, Le Discotheque, The Roaring Twenties, and later at the Twisted Wheel in Manchester and of course, the Wigan Casino, as Northern Soul went from strength to strength.

Early revivalists, Streatham 1976

With their full wage packets in their pockets - no more donating half of it to the family teapot as their older Ted brothers may have done - these slender sorts would stalk the Kings Road and Carnaby Street of a weekend or lunch hour (were they not forgoing lunch for an hour of dancing in Noonday Underground, if you believe Tom Wolfe's account in The Pump House Gang). There, they would purchase the slimmest of suits, immaculate form-fitting shirts, whip-thin leather ties, cashmere V-necks, snowy white polo-necks, and winkle pickers as sharp as spearheads. For the working-class male, shopping had previously been the preserve of their sisters: now they joined ‘em. For while it’s often said Mod was very much a Boys’ Club, Mod Girls were arguably the first female members of a youth subculture. Teds had had loyal girlfriends - some even wore Drapes over their petticoats - but they were not autonomous the way Mod Girls were. Modettes had their own look, their own shops and thus jobs that allowed them to Mod-it-up all day, every day. They painted their lips cardiac-arrest white, their eyebrows black or brown, and while they coolly revelled in their sexuality, taking the mainstream mini to hitherto unseen heights (thanks to Ms Quant)  they also dabbled in androgyny with tufted, micro-fringed crops a la Julie Driscoll, or else geometric bobs sharp enough to take your eye out. 

Girls a la mod(e)

There was a feminine influence in the attire of the male Mods too in the form of cravats, in smooth, lacquered, blow-dried hair, and also in their dancefloor behaviour: much of the African-American soul was swooning, romantic music. There were harder Mods of course, who preferred the fast skanking rhythm of blue beat and ska, shorter hair, Fred Perry and Sta-Prest and who would later evolve into skinheads. But for now, they shared the dancefloor, each lost in their own moves; and if music is sex, as they say (and the rhythms of Mod music were nothing if not carnal) Mods of both genders were indulging in very public masturbation. Come ’64, and the Mod sound exploded with the dishonestly named The Pretty Things and of course, The Who. (The Faces, who came along in ’69, were almost revivalist).



It was inevitable that Mod was going to move out of the margins and into the mainstream, but commercial assimilation was not what sounded the death knell for Mod – nor was it the first whiff of patchouli oil that signified the Hippie takeover that was around the corner (Hippie was Mod’s diametric opposite – only a bunch of kids from privileged backgrounds could afford to look so scruffy, so shabby). No, the real reason was that few of the Mods and Modettes escaped the gravitational pull of their backgrounds; most of them found themselves up the aisle and up the duff come 25. This is not to say many of them didn’t Keep the Faith (well into middle age and beyond in many cases), but those in their late twenties and early thirties simply didn’t register on the cultural radar the way youth did.

'ard Mod couple 1971

By 1979, New Mod found itself on the frontlines of the post-punk style wars. This baffled some original Mods, who pointed out that since Mod derived from Modernist it was all about looking forward, not back. But this was to miss the point of Mod’s essential timelessness, its innate modernity – for the Mod look (and attitude) hasn’t got a hint of anachronism about it. Unlike a be-mohawked Kings Road throwback still charging tourists £1 a snap by Camden Lock, a Mod need not indulge in such a con. 

Your author's cousin Darren, with Lambretta and aunty's fetching nets, Sheffield 1979

Originally published on Queens of Vintage.com, March 2010